Recommended Nailing Method

HORIZONTAL SIDING (Side View)

HORIZONTAL OR VERTICAL SIDING (Side View)

VERTICAL SIDING (Overhead View)

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Face nail with one nail only per bearing. Drive nail so shank clears the top of the proceeding undercourse.

BEWARE OF DRIVING NAIL HOME WITH TOO HEAVY A BLOW> WOOD MAY SPLIT OR CUP DUE TO NON-SUPPORT IN CAVITY.

 Face nail with one nail only per bearing. Drive nail about one inch above lower edge of course. Face nail with two siding nails per bearing for patterns wider than six inches. Position nails one-quarter the width of the material in from each edge. For narrower courses, one nail per bearing is enough - with the nailing point one inch from the overlapping edge. Blind-nail four - and six- inch widths through tongues with finish nails. Use one nail per bearing. For wider patterns, face nail with two nails per bearing, as in V Shiplap, left. Use one nail, an inch from the lap, for 6-inch channel shiplap. Face nail with two nails per bearing for patterns 8” and wider. Space nails 1 1/2 inches from the edge of the overlap and two inches from the edge of the underlap. Nail other widths proportionately. Position material to allow expansion clearance of 1/8”. Boards should be nailed to horizontal blocking installed between studs at no more than 24 inches on center.

Space underboards about 1/2 inch apart and nail with one nail per bearing driven through center of material. Boards wider than 8” use 2 face nails evenly spaced. Nail batten strips with one nail per bearing, driven through center. Boards should be nailed to horizontal blocking installed between studs at no more than 24 inches on center.

 

 


DO
 Do use noncorrosive nails to avoid nail stains...aluminum alloy or stainless steel.
Do use ring-shanked wood siding nails.
Do use properly sized nails. Shank should penetrate 1 1/2 inches into framing members or a combination of framing members and solid wood sheathing. If sheathing is not solid wood, use longer nails for 1 1/2 inch penetration into solid wood framing.
Do pre-drill holes to prevent splitting when nailing mitered corners or near ends.
Do use water-resistant building paper with a rating of at least 5 perms.
Do use a wood-based sheathing.
Do remember that saw-textured surfaces perform better and hold finishes longer.

DO NOT
 Do not use common iron, copper, cement-coated, electro-plated or galvanized nails. These will cause stains.
Do not use casing, finishing or other small-head nails, except for blind nailing Tongue & groove, because they will not hold lumber in place.
Do not staple lumber. Most staples stain and do not have enough holding power.
Do not nail through tip of undercourse on lapped siding. This will cause splitting.
Do not nail to sheathing only. This will not hold lumber in place.
Caution ! There have been reports of moisture-related problems with the use of rigid foam sheathing. Check with manufacturer regarding the application of siding over rigid foam sheathing.

AVOID GAPS
Wood exhibits very little end shrinkage. Unseasoned wood from green to an oven-dry state has a longitudinal shrinkage of about 0.1 to 0.2 percent. A  twenty-foot board exhibiting 0.2 percent shrinkage would shrink a little less than 1/2 inch.
Using bevel cuts at butt joints can minimize the appearance of gaps if shrinkage occurs.
 
Another method is to cut the last piece in each course 1/16 inch overlong, requiring it to be snapped into place for a tight fit. This practice allows for shrinkage but will not accommodate moisture-induced swelling.